Calm

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Today is my last day in beautiful Nicaragua. After spending 12 days surfing all conditions and a total of 16 days in paradise I amhumbled. There was a reason why I was drawn here. I’ve experienced life changing moments in this beautiful country and have learnt so many lessons. One that I’m most grateful for is Calmness.

There’s a lot of emotion flowing as I think about landing back in landlocked wintery Calgary. When no alarm is needed to get out of bed by 5:30 am. When you can wake your body up with a dose of salt water as you paddle out into the ocean. When you can catch a few waves before your fresh coffee and breakfast overlooking the sea. It’s hard to think about how mornings will look back home.

After surfing for 12 years this was the first trip I truly embraced being calm in chaos. I was challenged a few sessions with rise up surf and nicasurfing to surf waves I wouldn’t normally get into on my own. I surfed on boards that were shapes and sizes I never thought I could ride. With challenge comes discomfort. With discomfort comes growth. Learning to be calm through the process has been a struggle but incredibly humbling when I embraced it.

I got absolutely shit kicked at a wave called ponga drops down south and caught in the impact zone a few too many uncomfortable seconds in the North. The pull of the currents and the heaviness of the waves were definitely intimidating and forced me out of my comfort zone. My guide Armando kept telling me to “keep paddling through it, don’t hesitate, breathe, when you rest take in the scenery, be patient, these waves won’t kill you, just let yourself fail and experience it, you’ll be fine”. Words that on the ocean on my surfboard 100% apply to life.

When I found that sense of ease and calmness through the chaos I was in, I recognized how much of my day to day back home I allow myself to live in chaos. You can’t control the conditions of the waves or the tides nor can you control what happens to you in your life but you can practice breathe, patience, presence, failure, peace and being calm through it all.

There is something magical about Nicaragua. I am excited to practice these skills I mastered in the ocean to my life in Canada and see where the tides take me next.

A special thanks to rise up surf, nicasurfing and aqua wellness for taking such good care of me. I can’t wait to see you all again!

Until next time,

Mal